Accra to Aburi

by bike in a day. SJD and I have heard that Aburi will be our best best for real mountainbiking around Accra. Accra seems rather flat and congested surrounded by more flatness - not the best combination for trail riding. Aburi lies about 30km north of Accra on the top of a low mountain range. We set out early Sunday morning on commuter bikes with the intenion of riding to Aburi, and just turning around.

All was going well the first hour on the roads. The tro-tros didn't run us off the road. A Ghanaian rode along with us for a mile or so chatting away about Aburi and his bike...I think. Eventually the pavement ended at a barricade and a small kiosk. Out pops a Ghana Police to ask where we're headed. Aburi we assure him. By bike? Yes, by bike. Why? Because. He pointed out that the road ahead was under construction. A moment later a construction type guy ( I can spot them) appeared. Same two questions/answers... He says we can ride through if we're careful. We nod to each other to be careful and proceed around the barricade and up the gravel switchbacks. The road climb offered nice valley views and a good workout.

Fast forward a few miles to the top in Ketase where we stop for a quick drink. The kiosk owner pulls out two plastic chairs for us. Very nice. A knock on the adjacent kiosk window produces two bottles of Coke from an eight year old girl. We quite the object of attention of the local kids. At one point, a little guy appears from around the corner. He stops dead in his tracks seeing SJD and me in bike helmets and garish (SJD disputes the use of garish to describe her tasteful lavender jersey) shirts. He retreats quickly to his friends.

Back on our bikes we finish the final 5km to Aburi for our turn around point. A small tour company www.ghanabike.com operates out of the end of town. We'll be sure to return.

Heading back south through Ketase to Accra we near the same construction zone from the north end. Construction workers have gathered, and we assume it must be the end of the day. SJD snaps this picture.

Just your average road sign warning of "unpredictable inconveniences." That could mean a lot of things in Ghana, but in this case it seemed to mean "blasting". Luckily a more diligent Ghana Police officer stops us from proceeding further. The options appear to be wait until blasting stops, or take a bypass. We bypass not entirely certain where or how we'll get back into Accra. The road is full of pot holes and rolls along the ridge a while before dropping back into the valley. Our map does not agree with the towns we're passing through. Names are spelled differently. Roads connect differently. Villages are not even mentioned. In the end the bypass is somewhat unpredictable, but conveniently funnels us back to a familiar intersection near home. We arrive at our house tired, thirsty and dusty.

I stopped by the Mapping and Surveying Bureau today to pick up a more accurate map. It is really amazing the misinformation provided by the tourist maps. Someone could ignore all warning signs and bypasses and simply wander into a blasting zone.

Columbus Day

A photo from an short trip to a local Batik print cloth shop - kinda a learning and shopping experience rolled up in one. The process seems pretty simple at first. Stamp blank cloth with wax design. Dip in dye. Let dry. I'm sure though that if I were to step in for anyone at this particular shop, things would go downhill rather quickly. It really was fascinating to watch for the hour we were there. There is nothing automated about it. Fire to melt the stamping wax. Sun to dry the dyed fabric. Not even a cash register or neon sign guiding us in.

I'm pretty certain that each piece of fabric is unique in pattern and color combination. The finished product was on display in the upper room of the house in the photo. Unfortunately the power was out in the neighborhood today (load shedding due to energy shortage), so we had to view colors out on the balcony in direct sun. Business as usual apparently.

The printed fabric is ready for sale straight from the drying lot if necessary. I bought 4yds of one print for C-72,000 (about $8US). I'm not really sure what will become of it. I've heard that tailors are very good and inexpensive. For now, the fabric adds some welcome color to our otherwise bland white home furnishings.

Later in the day, I went searching for maps - accurate maps!

Home away from home

Here is a photo of the front of our house in Accra. It is very white with lots of outdoor sitting areas. Six stoops, patios and porches last time I checked. The inside is even brighter white. Kinda hard to believe. I haven't yet taken time to name every room similar to our house in DC, simply because they all kinda look alike.

Hidden around the corner inside the wall is a small driveway. If/when our car ever arrives, this is where we'll find it. For now, we enjoy grand entries on our bikes...before hoisting them through the front door.

The gardner Emanuel has been keeping up with the gardening very nicely. I guess it is a year round gig for him since there really is not any big seasonal change. There is a papaya tree in the rear that we're keeping an eye on. Not sure if we wait for them to fall to the ground, or if I need to send SJD scampering up the trunk to retrieve them.

Right now it may just look like an ice cube tray full of mud, but just wait! Today I started a few seeds for our tomato plot. If tomatos like hot and humid, then they'll like Accra.

Or, I could also just walk around the corner to buy some fresh ones.

Mr. Rexford's bikes

Ok, I have a few bikes stored in my house. More specifically 5 of the 6 bikes you could hop on and ride away right now. Then there are the boxes of bike parts that could possibly build another two or three bikes with a little help from Mr. Rexford (pictured). I stumbled upon Mr. Rexford's bike repair shop today while wandering through a rather interesting part of town. I'll have to retrace my route on a map to figure out just where I ended up.

Anyway, the main thoroughfare was lined with auto dealers. Turning onto the side street was like stepping into a junk yard, although a very organized junk yard. But is wasn't a junk yard at all. There was block after block in every direction of storefronts peddling used bumpers, wipers, dashboards, right doors, axles, engines, mirrors, cables, mufflers, gas caps, things, gizmos, doohickies and whatchamacalits. Oh yeah, batteries and dipsticks and lots of jacks. I'm not really sure why I kept going. Probably just to see how far it would go on. All used stuff. If the Makola market fruit and veggies was the most colorful place I've seen, this auto parts market was the darkest place. Everything black and covered in grease and dirt. Almost creepy in broad daylight.

Oh yeah, back to Mr. Rexford. Apparently the majority of the bikes are donations and cast-offs from Asia, US and Europe. Perhaps Bikes-not-Bombs collections... He didn't quite know for sure. Some notable items. Lots of horizontal slot frames. A belt drive bike. Lots of interesting and racks. Lots of scap. This is the smaller of three or four piles too.

We chatted a while longer about bikes, rides, hard work and Rasta (not sure why) with me mostly nodding in agreement until I needed to get out of the sun. Was interesting.

I just hope that I won't need to return for automobile related reasons once our car arrives.

Well, I've arrived in Ghana.